I've got Tencel!

Submitted by laura on Tue, 03/09/2010 - 20:42

What is Tencel?

Tencel is the brand name for lyocell fabric, which is made of hardwood pulp. Its properties and the way it's produced are similar to organic bamboo velour, which is another popular eco-friendly fabric and one that is often used in cloth pads.

How eco-friendly is it?

In this case it's second-hand, so the environmental impact of turning it into pads vs bedroom curtains is pretty minimal. (I do need to make bedroom curtains, though.)

But if you were to buy the material new you would be interested to know that Tencel, manufactured by the Austrian based Lenzing Group, is made of sustainably farmed hardwoods and processed in a 99% closed-loop system, which means that the solvents and water used to transform the wood pulp into fibers are recaptured and reused. There is very little waste, and emissions from the factories are low. The enzyme-based solvents are non-toxic, and Lenzing Group uses oxygen instead of chlorine bleach. This process earned Lenzing Group the European Union's Environmental Award in the category "technology for sustainable developments" in 2000. The fibers are highly biodegradable, and in the right conditions they can decompose in just eight days as long as they haven't been treated with chemicals that change their structure.

Although Lenzing Group is committed to high ecological standards, the finished products made of Tencel vary in how they are treated and blended with other fabrics once they leave the processing plants. Tencel fabrics are sometimes treated with chemicals to make them more colorfast and durable. This is why people who have multiple chemical sensitivities should be as cautious when buying clothing made of Tencel as when considering other fibers.

What kind of Tencel do I have?

I don't know the complete story behind the fabric that ended up in my sewing room, but it's a heavy, dense woven fabric that has more of a fine, peach fuzz softness than a silky softness when you run your fingers over it, although there is no visible fuzz.

It shares some properties with cotton and wool. It breathes well, feels very natural, does not pill, and regulates temperature the way other natural fibers do. It feels like soft cotton fabric against the skin. It absorbs liquid slowly but holds a lot.

It doesn't shrink in hot water and it can take a hot iron. The red dye is not super colorfast though, so it's best to wash in cold water.

What am I making out of it?

This fabric makes a very comfortable topping for light to medium flow, but it wouldn't be a good topping fabric for anyone who gushes a lot because it is a slow absorber like flat cotton. It holds a lot though, so it makes a nice trim alternative to wool or synthetic fleece backing when used in lower layers or as backing on medium abosrbency pads.

The only color I have is scarlet, but if you'd like to try it, you can choose between contrast stitching and matching scarlet thread.

How do you wash tencel?

Wash in cold water. Do not use Dr. Bronner's soap because it causes the dye to bleed. Other soaps not meant specifically for laundry could have the same effect. If you're using homemade detergent, make sure it includes salt to help keep the colors from bleeding.

Line drying is great for tencel pads. They dry quickly and don't get "crunchy" the way other fabrics can when air dried.